Welcome

This module describes the main elements to consider when analyzing ocean swell to prepare a surf forecast. It also discusses some things you need to be aware of when using wave observations and wave model data.

Note that the content in this module is an excerpt from the previously published COMET module Rip Currents: Forecasting. While most references to rip currents have been removed from this module, some remain where they provide important applications to surf forecasting.

At the end of this module, you should be able to do the following:

  • Describe wave data available from the NDBC website and its limitations
  • Using a spectral density plot for a buoy:
    1. Determine the number of wave groups
    2. Determine the peak period
  • List the parameters that are determined by a wave model
  • Describe a polar wave spectrum plot
  • Describe the information available in a NWW3 text bulletin
  • Use a polar wave spectrum plot to determine the following:
    1. Direction and period of wind waves and swell groups
    2. Number of wave/swell groups
  • Use a NWW3 text bulletin to determine the following:
    1. Direction, period, and significant wave height of wind waves and swell groups
    2. Number of wave/swell groups
  • Using buoy observations and wave model products determine the height and period of swell likely to strike a given coastline
  • Describe what is meant by wave masking and how it might affect a surf forecast along the coast
  • Using buoy observations and wave model products determine whether a wave model initialized well
  • Describe the conditions under which a wave model simulation might be in error, and what errors might subsequently result