This module describes the main elements to consider when analyzing wave model and buoy data. The module focuses on data products available from NOAA including spectral plots, maps, and text bulletins. East and West Coast wave-masking exercises conclude the module. The content in this module is an excerpt from the previously published COMET module Rip Currents: Forecasting.
Have an account?
Sign In to write a review.
At the end of this module, you should be able to do the following:
- Describe wave data available from the NDBC website and its limitations
- Using a spectral density plot for a buoy:
- Determine the number of wave groups
- Determine the peak period
- List the parameters that are determined by a wave model
- Describe a polar wave spectrum plot
- Describe the information available in a NWW3 text bulletin
- Use a polar wave spectrum plot to determine the following:
- direction and period of wind waves and swell groups
- number of wave/swell groups
- Use a NWW3 text bulletin to determine the following:
- direction, period, and significant wave height of wind waves and swell groups
- number of wave/swell groups
- Using buoy observations and wave model products determine the height and period of swell likely to strike a given coastline
- Describe what is meant by wave masking and how it might affect a surf forecast along the coast
- Using buoy observations and wave model products determine whether a wave model initialized well
- Describe the conditions under which a wave model simulation might be in error, and what errors might subsequently result
wave, wind waves, swell, WAVEWATCH III, NWW3, wave model, National Data Buoy Center, NDBC, buoy, wave period, wave spectral density, wave masking, masking, spectral plot, polar plot, spectral text bulletins
July 2020 - The lesson was updated to current internet standards (mp4/html5), with no changes to content.
