Shallow Water Waves

Shallow Water Waves
By the end of this lesson, you will have learned:
  • Transformations of waves as they move from deep water into shallow water
  • How to describe and predict the effects of shallow-water processes such as shoaling, refraction, and attenuation
  • How to identify and distinguish between the various breaker types, matching them with their corresponding bathymetry
  • How to predict the effects of interactions between waves and currents
  • The difference between wave run-up and set-up, and how to estimate them