Shallow Water Waves
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- Languages: English, Spanish, French
- Publish Date: 2006-08-01
- Last Updated On: 2017-09-05
- Skill Level: 2
- Completion Time: 1.00 - 1.25 h
- Includes Audio: yes
- Required Plugins: none
- Topics:
Coastal Weather, Oceanography/Marine/Tsunami - Included in Courses:
Wind and Wave Forecasting Distance Learning Course -
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This is the fourth lesson in our series on open water waves. As deep-water
waves approach the coastline, they encounter shallower water and begin to
interact with the sea floor while evolving into shallow water waves. This
lesson uses an interactive wave calculator to look at a variety of shallow-water wave behaviors, including shoaling, refraction, reflection, breaking, attenuation, and coastal run-up and set-up. All are important considerations when forecasting for small craft and other recreational interests in the near-shore environment.
