New Oceanography Modules
Oceanography is a new and growing topic area on MetEd. In addition to those listed below, upcoming modules in this series will discuss additional features and applications of ocean models and littoral oceanography.
Three new offerings include Introduction to Ocean Currents, Introduction to Ocean Tides, and Introduction to Ocean Models. Planned modules include modules on the WaveWatch III model, Ocean Circulation Modeling, and Near-Shore Wave Modeling.

New Webcast: Wave Ensembles in the Marine Forecast Process
COMET has created a Webcast introducing the marine forecasting community to Ensemble Global Ocean Wave Forecast System (EGOWaFS). The Webcast includes a discussion of the unique basis for ensemble prediction of ocean waves, the location and interpretation of web-based graphics of EGOWaFS output and how to obtain the raw data, and some case examples discussing a source of EGOWaFS forecast bias, the use of EGOWaFS data for boundary forcing of a local area wave model, and application of EGOWaFS data to produce probabilistic forecasts for the occurrence of rip currents.

Outreach Program Reports
Research conducted by Humboldt State Univ. and the Eureka, CA WFO under
the COMET
Outreach Program has focused on implementing a nearshore wave
forecasting model for populating NWS IFPS grids with wave forecast
data and to forecast the wave hazard at the entrance to Humboldt
Bay. See the report: A
high resolution near-shore wave model for northwestern California.
In another project, Stevens Institute of Technology and the Mount
Holly WFO developed a coastal wave forecasting system for New York,
New Jersey, Delaware, and Maryland. The model is based on NOAA's Great
Lakes Environmental Research Laboratory (GLERL) Model. The forecast
products can be seen at this link,
and the final report is available here.
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Materials: Courses | Modules
| Translated Modules
Distance Learning Courses
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Course Title and Link |
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Introductory Topics in Oceanography
description (click to show/hide) |
Description:
This distance learning course provides ocean forecasters with a solid foundation for more advanced study in oceanography. The three modules that comprise this course provide introductions to tides, currents, and ocean models.
* Introduction to Ocean Tides provides an introduction to the origin, characteristics, and prediction of tides.
* Introduction to Ocean Currents discusses the origin of ocean currents in both the open ocean and in coastal areas.
* Introduction to Ocean Models discusses how models combine observations and physics to predict the ocean temperature, salinity, and currents.
Estimated time to complete: 4-5 h
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Wind and Wave Forecasting Distance Learning Course
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Description:
This course is composed of five core topic elements. It begins with a Webcast introducing forecasters to typical marine forecast customers and their wind and wave concerns. The second module discusses wave traits and how they change once they become swell. It serves as building block to the subsequent modules on wave generation, propagation, and dispersion. The Wave Life Cycle I: Generation module examines how wind creates waves and the inter-relationships between wind speed, wind duration, and fetch length. Following that module, Wave Life Cycle II: Propagation & Dispersion, teaches marine forecasters to manually predict how wave height and period change as waves leave their generation area, become swell, and then propagate and disperse. The final element of the course is a resource guide primarily intended for experienced forecasters that may be new to marine forecast responsibilities. The guide highlights differences between the marine boundary layer and terrestrial boundary layer winds. Course certification requires completion of these five core topic elements which takes 7 - 9 hours.
Estimated time to complete: 7 - 9 h
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Modules
content level: 0=for non-scientists, 1=basic, 2=intermediate, 3=advanced
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Module Title and Link |
Quiz Link |
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Advances in Microwave Remote Sensing: Ocean Wind Speed and Direction
description (click to show/hide) |
Quiz
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Description:
This Webcast covers the ocean surface wind retrieval process, the basics of microwave polarization as it relates to wind retrievals, and several operational examples. Information on the development of microwave sensors used to retrieve ocean surface wind speed and the ocean surface wind vector (speed and direction) is also included.
Objectives:
State some key meteorological applications for ocean surface winds
• Describe the benefits of using microwave remote sensing to observe ocean winds
• Describe the differences between active and passive microwave remote sensing
• Describe in general terms, the emission, transmission, and scattering of microwave energy within the Earth-atmosphere system
• State the key assumptions for derivation of wind speed and direction from passive observation of microwave radiation
• Describe the limitations of passive microwave remote sensing and impacts on deriving wind speed and direction (this applies to both product limits and accuracy)
• Use cloud liquid water imagery to help assess the validity of the wind speed and direction vector
Estimated time to complete: 45 min
Includes audio: yes
Required plug-ins: Flash RealPlayer Java Adobe® Reader®
* Plug-in information
Last published on: 2005-11-28
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Coastally Trapped Wind Reversals
description (click to show/hide) |
Quiz
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Description:
This module starts with a forecast scenario that occurs along the California coast. The module then proceeds to describe the structure and climatology of these disturbances, as well as their synoptic and mesoscale evolution. The instruction concludes with a section on forecasting coastally trapped wind reversals. The module also includes a concise summary for quick reference and a final exam to test your knowledge. Like other modules in the Mesoscale Meteorology Primer, this module comes with audio narration, rich graphics, and a companion print version.
Objectives:
At the end of the module you should be able to do the following things:
With regard to characteristics of CTWRs
• Describe how pressure, temperature, and wind change with passage of a coastally trapped wind reversal (CTWR)
• Recall how quickly CTWRs propagate up the U.S. West Coast
• Recall why SLP rises after passage of a CTWR
• Locate areas likely to experience CTWRs on a physical map of the world
• Recall the frequency of CTWRs along the California coast
• Explain why CTWRs are best explained as a Kelvin wave, rather than a gravity wave
With regard to the structure of CTWRs
• Describe how the MBL changes with passage of a CTWR
• Recognize how a cross-coast profile of the MBL changes during a CTWR
• Recognize a CTWR on a wind profiler record
• Recall the height at which wind first reverses direction as a CTWR propagates
• Recall the association of stratus formation with CTWRs
With regard to the synoptic evolution of CTWRs
• Describe how MSLP, 850-mb heights, and 500-mb heights depart from climatologic norms during a CTWR
• Describe how changes in MSLP and 850-mb pressure force low-level offshore winds, and how this affects sensible weather along the coast
• Describe how variations in MSLP affect along-shore pressure gradients
With regard to the mesoscale evolution of CTWRs
• Recall how the synoptic setup forces the mesoscale offshore low
• Recall how the offshore low moves during a CTWR
• Describe how coastal mountains force ageostrophic flow
• Recall how coastal mountains contribute to warming of offshore winds
• Describe how and why a mesoscale high forms along the coast
• Recall the factors that cause northward propagation of the CTWR
With regard to forecasting CTWRs
• Recall the 3 best synoptic clues for forecasting a CTWR
• Recall where the offshore low forms with respect to the low-level offshore flow
• Recall where the stratus surge initiates with respect to the offshore low
• Describe the use and limitations of mesoscale NWP models in predicting CTWRs
Estimated time to complete: 1.5-2 h
Includes audio: yes
Required plug-ins: Flash RealPlayer Java Adobe® Reader®
* Plug-in information
Last published on: 2002-08-06
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Dynamically Forced Fog
description (click to show/hide) |
Quiz
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Description:
Fog frequently forms in response to dynamically forced changes in the boundary layer. This module examines dynamically forced fog in the coastal and marine environment, focusing on advection fog, steam fog, and west coast type fog. The focus of the module is on the boundary layer evolution of air parcels as they traverse trajectories over land and water. The module also examines mesoscale effects that impact the distribution of fog and low-level stratus over short distances. A general discussion of forecast products and methodologies concludes the module.
Objectives:
After completing this module, the learner should be able to do the following things:
With regard to the general features of dynamically forced fog and stratus:
• Describe the differences in boundary layer characteristics and evolution for advection, West Coast, and steam fog in a marine environment
• Describe the differences in synoptic environments for advection, West Coast, and steam fog in a marine environment
• Describe the relationship of sea surface temperature to fog formation for advection, West Coast, and steam fog in a marine environment
With regard to advection fog:
• Describe the general synoptic environment that is conducive to fog formation
• List at least 2 ways that subtropical high-pressure systems contribute to the formation of advection fog
• Describe the evolution of the boundary layer along an air parcel trajectory that leads to advection fog
• Describe how sea surface temperature changes along an air parcel trajectory that leads to advection fog
• Recall the origins of strong sea surface temperature gradients
• On a world map, identify areas prone to advection fog
• Recall the seasonality of advection fog
With regard to West Coast fog and low stratus:
• Describe the general synoptic environment that is conducive to fog formation
• List at least 2 ways that subtropical high-pressure systems contribute to the formation of West Coast fog and low stratus
• Describe the evolution of the boundary layer along an air parcel trajectory that leads to West Coast fog and low stratus
• List at least 2 ways that the boundary layer cools to saturation in a West Coast fog/stratus event.
• Recall the role of upwelling in the formation of West Coast fog and low stratus
• On a world map, identify areas prone to West Coast fog and low stratus
• Recall the seasonality of West Coast fog and low stratus
With regard to steam fog:
• Describe the general synoptic environment that is conducive to fog formation
• Describe the characteristics and evolution of the boundary layer along an air parcel trajectory that leads to steam fog
• On a world map, identify areas prone to steam fog
• Recall the seasonality of steam fog events
With regard to mesoscale influences upon dynamically forced fog:
• Describe the effects of coastal topography in fog formation
• Describe how coastal jets affect fog formation and dissipation
• Describe how sea breezes affect fog formation and dissipation
• Describe the impact of local variations in sea surface temperature on fog formation and dissipation
With regard to forecasting dynamically forced fog:
• Describe the general approach to forecasting fog
• List at least 4 critical atmospheric fields to monitor in plan view when forecasting fog
• List at least 4 critical atmospheric fields to monitor in vertical profiles when forecasting fog
• Describe the limitations of NWP models in fog forecasting
Estimated time to complete: 3 h
Includes audio: yes
Required plug-ins: Flash RealPlayer Java Adobe® Reader®
* Plug-in information
Last published on: 2005-03-01
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Introduction to Ocean Currents
description (click to show/hide) |
Quiz
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Description:
This module discusses the origin of ocean currents in both the open ocean and in coastal areas. The module focuses on the driving mechanisms for currents, along with influences that modify existing currents. Driving mechanisms include wind, horizontal density differences, and tides, while modifying effects include friction, bathymetry, and the Ekman spiral. The module concludes with a demonstration of data products and a brief overview of forecast considerations.
Objectives:
After completing this module, the learner should be able to do the following things:
1. Identify the locations of the major and minor ocean currents and describe their origin
1. List the factors that cause ocean currents
2. Describe how each factor influences ocean currents
2. Characterize open-ocean currents in terms of temperature, volume (transport), and speed.
3. Describe the origin of strong horizontal and vertical temperature, salinity, and density gradients in both open ocean and coastal ocean environments.
4. Describe the effects of friction, bathymetry, and Coriolis force on ocean currents in both open ocean and coastal ocean environments.
5. Explain the role of ocean currents in the global distribution of heat (i.e., the earth's heat budget).
1. Define global meridional overturning circulation (MOC)
2. Describe the origin of North Atlantic Deep Water and Antarctic Bottom Water
6. Describe current prediction methods and forecast considerations
Estimated time to complete: 2 h
Includes audio: yes
Required plug-ins: Flash RealPlayer Java Adobe® Reader®
* Plug-in information
Last published on: 2007-10-04
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Introduction to Ocean Models
description (click to show/hide) |
Quiz
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Description:
Oceans cover over 70% of the surface of the earth, yet many details of their workings are not fully understood. To better understand and forecast the state of the ocean, we rely on numerical ocean models. Ocean models combine observations and physics to predict the ocean temperature, salinity, and currents at any time and any place across the ocean basins. This module will discuss what goes into numerical ocean models, including model physics, coordinate systems, parameterization, initialization, and boundary conditions.
Objectives:
1. Explain the similarities and differences between ocean and atmospheric modeling.
2. Explain the physical laws and processes that must be considered in developing an ocean model.
3. Explain how the physical properties of the ocean differ from those of the atmosphere.
4. Explain the processes that are built into a numerical ocean model.
5. Explain how resolution and scale are important to global, regional, and local ocean models.
6. Describe a numerical model and how it can be used as a prediction tool.
7. Explain how real-time observations and climatology contribute to ocean models.
Estimated time to complete: 1-2 h
Includes audio: yes
Required plug-ins: Flash RealPlayer Java Adobe® Reader®
* Plug-in information
Last published on: 2007-08-06
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Introduction to Ocean Tides
description (click to show/hide) |
Quiz
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Description:
Ocean tides profoundly impact coastal maritime operations. This module provides an introduction to the origin, characteristics, and prediction of tides. After introducing common terminology, the module examines the mechanisms that cause and modify tides, including both astronomical and meteorological effects. A discussion of tide prediction techniques and products concludes the module. This module includes rich graphics, audio narration, embedded interactions, and a companion print version.
Objectives:
1. List and define terms used to describe tides.
2. List and define the forces that cause and modify tides.
3. Define tidal constituents.
4. Describe tidal datum and why it is important.
5. Describe tide prediction methods
6. Explain when to use tidal observations vs. models
Estimated time to complete: 45 min
Includes audio: yes
Required plug-ins: Flash RealPlayer Java Adobe® Reader®
* Plug-in information
Last published on: 2006-09-22
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Low-Level Coastal Jets
description (click to show/hide) |
Quiz
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Description:
Low-level coastal jets occur along many coastlines. Winds may exceed 35 knots and lead to high waves and significant low-level vertical wind shear. Thus, low-level coastal jets present a hazard to both marine and aviation operations in the coastal zone. This core module describes the features of coastal jets and explores the conditions under which they form. Like other foundation modules in the Mesoscale Primer, this module starts with a forecast scenario and concludes with a concise summary and a final exam. By the end of this module, you should have sufficient background to diagnose and forecast coastal jets around the world and to use this knowledge to understand the implications for operational decisions.
Objectives:
After completing this module, the learner should be able to do the following things.
With regard to the features of coastal jets:
• Describe a coastal jet; its location, size, strength, and operational impacts
• Describe the synoptic conditions that lead to a coastal jet
• Describe the boundary layer structure that results in a coastal jet
• Describe the role of coastal mountains in the formation of coastal jets
With regard to the thermal structure and forcing of coastal jets:
• Describe how a cool, well-mixed marine boundary layer leads to a baroclinic structure
• Identify an appropriate baroclinic structure for a coastal jet in a vertical cross section of potential temperature
• Given a global plot of sea level pressure, identify locations that are prone to coastal jets
• Recall the difference in conditions that lead to a coastal jet as opposed to a sea breeze
• Recall the origins of cool sea surface temperatures (SSTs)
• On a world map, identify areas prone to cold ocean currents and coastal upwelling
With regard to along-coast variations of coastal jets:
• Given a map of California or Oman, identify local regions of maximum and minimum wind speeds within a coastal jet
• Recall the correlation of wind speed with mesoscale variations in sea level pressure and thickness of the marine boundary layer
• Describe how hydraulic theory can explain variations in the thickness of the marine boundary layer
With regard to forecasting coastal jets:
• On a synoptic scale, recognize the structure that leads to a coastal jet at the surface and at 850 hPa
• On the mesoscale, recognize areas that are prone to local wind maxima within a coastal jet
• Recall which satellite sensors will help detect coastal jets
Estimated time to complete: 1-2 h
Includes audio: yes
Required plug-ins: Flash RealPlayer Java Adobe® Reader®
* Plug-in information
Last published on: 2004-08-16
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Marine Wave Model Matrix
description (click to show/hide) |
No Quiz
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Description:
The Marine Wave Model Matrix provides information on the formulation of wave models developed by the National Centers for Environmental Prediction (NCEP) and other modeling centers, including how these models forecast the generation, propagation, and dissipation of ocean waves using NWP model forecasts for winds and near-surface temperature and stability. Additionally, information is provided on data assimilation, post-processing of data, and verfication of wave models currently in operation. Within the post-processing pages are links to forecast output both in graphical and raw form, including links for data downloads. Links to COMET training on wave processes are also provided.
Estimated time to complete: 30 min
Includes audio: no
Required plug-ins: Flash RealPlayer Java Adobe® Reader®
* Plug-in information
Last published on: 2006-05-16
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Microwave Remote Sensing: Overview
description (click to show/hide) |
Quiz
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Description:
This module presents an overview of space-based microwave remote sensing for environmental applications. It provides basic information on polar-orbiting satellite characteristics, current microwave instruments, and the imagery and products currently available from these sensors. Special attention is given to the improvements expected in the NPOESS era. This module is an introduction to other, more in-depth modules covering the science and application of cloud, precipitation, water vapor, land and sea surface observations.
Objectives:
- Describe how microwave remote sensing compliments visible and infrared observations
- Describe the general spatial and temporal coverage characteristics of microwave observations from polar-orbiting satellites
- Define data latency and explain why it occurs
- Describe the improvements to data latency coming in 2006, and then in the NPOESS era
- List several products that rely on microwave remote sensing
- Explain the fundamental difference between active versus passive remote sensing
- State the six “key” NPOESS Environmental Data Records (EDRs) considered essential to weather and climate monitoring and prediction
- Describe the importance and impact of microwave observations on numerical weather prediction models
- State the key differences between microwave and radiosonde sounding of atmospheric temperature and moisture
- Describe radio frequency interference as it relates to microwave observations, its geographical distribution, and potential impact on products
Estimated time to complete: 40 min
Includes audio: yes
Required plug-ins: Flash RealPlayer Java Adobe® Reader®
* Plug-in information
Last published on: 2006-04-03
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Polar Satellite Products for the Operational Forecaster: Microwave Analysis of Tropical Cyclones
description (click to show/hide) |
Quiz
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Description:
This module introduces forecasters to the use of microwave image products for observing and analyzing tropical cyclones. Microwave data from polar-orbiting satellites is crucial to today’s operational forecasters, and particularly for those with maritime forecasting responsibilities where in situ observations are sparse. This module includes information on storm structure and techniques for improved storm positioning using the 37 and 85-91 GHz channels from several satellite sensors. Information on current sensors and on the product availability in the NPOESS era is also presented.
Objectives:
• Explain how single channel and multispectral microwave imagery can be used to locate centers of circulation and other features within tropical cyclones
• Explain how parallax error affects imagery from different microwave channels
• Identify satellites that carry microwave imagers and sounders
• Contrast active and passive microwave remote sensing strategies
• Contrast conical and cross-track scanning strategies
• Explain how clouds, precipitation, and the ocean surface interact with microwave
energy at different frequencies
• Associate storm characteristics with features observed in microwave imagery
Estimated time to complete: 60 min
Includes audio: yes
Required plug-ins: Flash RealPlayer Java Adobe® Reader®
* Plug-in information
Last published on: 2004-11-10
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Remote Sensing of Ocean Wind Speed and Direction: An Introduction to Scatterometry
description (click to show/hide) |
Quiz
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Description:
This Webcast features Dr. Michael Freilich (Oregon State University, principal investigator on the QuikSCAT project for NSF) introducing and discussing the fundamentals of scatterometry and how they apply to the SeaWinds instrument on QuikSCAT. Dr. Freilich also describes how the model function is used to derive wind speed and direction from multiple collocated measurements.
Objectives:
• Describe the process of active remote sensing
• State the wavelengths used for deriving ocean surface wind speed and direction
• State the main variables that are used in the model function for deriving wind vectors (speed and direction)
• Define azimuth angle as it relates to satellite remote sensing geometry
• Define the incidence angle as it relates to satellite remote sensing geometry
• State the atmospheric conditions when wind vectors may be compromised
• Compare the scan strategies of fan beam and conical scatterometers
• Explain why certain parts of a conical scatterometer swath may have compromised accuracy
Estimated time to complete: 40 min
Includes audio: yes
Required plug-ins: Flash RealPlayer Java Adobe® Reader®
* Plug-in information
Last published on: 2004-07-14
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Rip Currents: Forecasting
description (click to show/hide) |
Quiz
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Description:
This is the third and final part in a training series on rip currents. The topic of forecasting daily rip current risk can be explored by operational forecasters, many of whom do not have a physical oceanography background. The hazards of rip currents and a review of the factors that contribute to rip current development are discussed. To demonstrate the process of a rip current forecast and as an example of what can locally be developed at the user’s station, the module presents a rip current worksheet that is used operationally at some forecast offices. Various parts of this worksheet require the use of observed data and model output. These resources range from NOS Detailed Wave Summary reports to NOAA WAVEWATCH III model polar plots of wave spectral energy. The usage of these products in terms of rip current forecasting using the worksheet is explained in detail. In particular, the issue of “wave masking” in the 2-D model plots is illustrated. In order to practice with the products presented, the user is provided two cases (East and West Coasts). Other factors discussed include tide and lake levels as well as situational awareness. Lastly, a summary of important points from the module and experienced forecast offices is provided. Users are encouraged to examine the state of their office’s rip current program and develop a plan for improvement based on concepts and ideas presented in this module.
Objectives:
1. Describe the important elements that determine rip current risk.
2. Describe a process and resources that can be used to develop a local rip current forecast scheme.
3. Given wave data, determine whether wave masking is occurring and what the appropriate swell or wave components are to assess rip current risk.
4. Describe factors, other than swell and wind waves, that can alter rip current risk.
Estimated time to complete: 2-3 h
Includes audio: yes
Required plug-ins: Flash RealPlayer Java Adobe® Reader®
* Plug-in information
Last published on: 2006-08-11
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Rip Currents: Nearshore Fundamentals
description (click to show/hide) |
Quiz
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Description:
The Rip Currents: Nearshore Fundamentals module provides insight into how nearshore circulation and wave dynamics are involved in rip current formation. Topics covered in this module include: nearshore terminology, circulation and waves, rip current characteristics, and rip current forcing mechanisms. This module is the second of three modules covering the forecasting of rip currents.
Objectives:
After completing the module users will be able to:
- Describe the various zones, bathymetry features, and currents of the near shore environment.
- Describe shallow water, near shore process.
- Describe rip current characteristics.
- Describe rip current forcing mechanisms.
Estimated time to complete: 40 min
Includes audio: yes
Required plug-ins: Flash RealPlayer Java Adobe® Reader®
* Plug-in information
Last published on: 2004-12-13
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Rip Currents: NWS Mission and Partnerships
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Quiz
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Description:
This 20-minute webcast by Timothy Schott of the National Weather Service's Marine and Coastal Weather Services Branch discusses the basics of rip current formation and detection and the partnerships between the National Weather Service, National Sea Grant College Program, and the United States Lifesaving Association as they relate to rip current safety. Rip Currents is one of three modules on forecasting rip currents.
Estimated time to complete: 20 min
Includes audio: yes
Required plug-ins: Flash RealPlayer Java Adobe® Reader®
* Plug-in information
Last published on: 2004-08-16
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Shallow Water Waves
description (click to show/hide) |
Quiz
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Description:
This is the fourth module in our series on open water waves. As deep-water
waves approach the coastline, they encounter shallower water and begin to
interact with the sea floor while evolving into shallow water waves. This
module uses an interactive wave calculator to look at a variety of shallow-water wave behaviors, including shoaling, refraction, reflection, breaking, attenuation, and coastal
run-up and set-up. All are important considerations when forecasting for
small craft and other recreational interests in the near-shore
environment.
Objectives:
By the end of this module, you will have learned:
* What transformations waves undergo as they move from deep water into shallow water
* How to describe and predict the effects of shallow-water processes such as shoaling, refraction, and attenuation
* How to identify and distinguish between the various breaker types, matching them with their corresponding bathymetry
* How to predict the effects of interactions between waves and currents
* The difference between wave run-up and set-up, and how to estimate them
Estimated time to complete: 1.5 h
Includes audio: yes
Required plug-ins: Flash RealPlayer Java Adobe® Reader®
* Plug-in information
Last published on: 2006-08-01
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Thermally-forced Circulation I: Sea Breezes
description (click to show/hide) |
Quiz
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Description:
This module describes the phenomena of the sea breeze. It examines factors that lead to the formation of a sea breeze, modifying effects on sea breeze development, how mesoscale NWP models handle sea breezes, and sea breeze forecast parameters. The module places instruction in the context of a sea breeze case from Florida and compares surface and satellite observations to a model simulation using the AFWA MM5. Like other modules in the Mesoscale Meteorology Primer, this module comes with audio narration, rich graphics, and a companion print version.
Objectives:
Terminal Objectives
By the end of this module you will be able to describe how and why, when and where sea breezes occur
Enabling Objectives
By the end of this module you will be able to do the following:
1. Describe when and where sea breezes form
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